The Hong Kong that guide books describe is a vibrant mix of East and West, old and new, where the "abacus is almost as prevalent as the pocket calculator" and "high-tech architecture soars above ancient temples." At dawn, according to the guide books, elderly Chinese practice "tai chi chuan" (sort of like shadow-boxing) in "cool green parks while street cobblers prepare to ply their goods" in the narrow, steep, back streets of the city. And after dark, (although the guide books never mention this), if you know where to look below the endless glow of neon signs, the familiar "thunk, thunk, thunk" of darts activity can be found, just as it can be almost anywhere else in the world.